Mark with a lumber crayon or pencil a pen will bleed through your paint later on. (We call this the domino-delamination effect.) To control this tendency we recommend carefully marking out your repair plan, then removing any areas with a sharp utility knife. Removing areas of damaged plaster-particularly in a ceiling-will encourage more plaster to come down, especially if you use a chisel-edged tool. Holding a vacuum nozzle on the drill bit helps suck the 1/4″ injection holes clear of dust. Plaster that is soft and crumbly will not hold up during the pushing and drilling and has to be removed as well. Often we find that the worst part of the ceiling has too much debris, and we have to remove this section, reattach the edges, then infill the lost parts with new plaster. Unless you can vacuum out all this debris from above, reattachment is probably not an option. If the plaster sags 1/2″ to 1″ from the lath, there is often too much debris (broken keys, years of silt) between the plaster and lath for success. If the separation is slight-say, between 1/4″ and 1/2″-good reattachment is likely because the plaster will usually push back into place solid and flat against the lath. Instead, just gently encourage the plaster with the flat of your hand. Do not force it back into place or more plaster may break. If there are broken keys or debris in the way, the plaster will resist seating, and it will feel and sound “crunchy” akin to breaking eggshells or crushing popcorn. Hopefully, you will feel it move back into place like a jigsaw puzzle piece sliding into its own unique spot. Gently push on the surface and judge the amount of play between plaster and lath. Stained cracks and suspicious shadows-the telltale signs of a delaminating plaster ceiling.Īfter correcting whatever problem made the ceiling loose in the first place (leaky roof, structural alterations), the first step is to assess how far the ceiling has pulled away. With these methods and good tool skills it’s possible to restore the integrity of plaster ceilings for many more years of service. Though variations of this technique are not new–texts from the 1920s recommend liquid sulfur as an adhesive–we use modern materials that are easy to handle and inflict minimal damage to sound plaster. We have successfully reattached many old ceilings by injecting adhesive between the plaster and lath where the keys (anchors) have broken away over time. PC10070/PC10080 STAS plasterboard profile inner/outside corner 12,5mmThe good news is, it’s possible to repair and rescue plaster ceilings from further damage. PC10170/PC10180 STAS plasterboard profile inner/outside corner 9,5mm PC10020 STAS plasterboard rail 12,5mm 200cm PC10120 STAS plasterboard rail 9,5mm 200cm Manual | Product info | Architect drawing STAS zipper on STAS cobra with steel cable (supports up to 20 kg) STAS zipper on STAS cobra with perlon cord (supports up to 15 kg) STAS smartspring on STAS cobra with perlon cord (supports up to 4 kg) The following hooks and cords can be used in combination with this picture hanging system: The STAS plasterboard rail can be used with the STAS cords with cobra. The result is a tightly finished room with an almost invisible picture hanging system that disappears into the shadow line of the plasterboards. Thanks to the 2 different profiles (9.5 mm / 12.5 mm), plasterboards with a thickness of 9 mm or 12 mm can be slid into the profiles of the STAS plasterboard rail.
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